And so, as I try to finish off the semester, whilst working unpaid as a teacher, I am dealing with an ever shrinking amount in my bank account.
Thus, when my scooter refused to start...again!...two weeks ago, and I had to spend 5x the amount on fuel than I normally do, through borrowing a car from my parents, my carefully constructed budget that is to have lasted me until July, is gone at the end of May as a result.
But hey, the repairman fixed my scooter yesterday and I got to drive it home...only to have it not start this morning.
It costs me $20 in gas just to drop off and pick up the scooter in a truck, due to the distance to the repair shop...and no one else locally repairs this kind of scooter (the three others are either out of business, moved, or stopped working on them).
To top it off, the summer job that I have worked at the past three years previous is no longer using writing tutors....so there goes my summer job...and the money to fix my motorcycle (and apparently my scooter).
Only the tip of the iceberg as my S.S. Titanic shudders from running into it....
I am likely going to have to put up for sale a number of games from Games Workshop that are extremely rare... Man O' War being one, and hope I can earn enough to live on for a while...until this economy turns around.
Mr. Murphy needs to go plague someone else for a while...
Saturday, April 28, 2012
Sunday, April 15, 2012
Army Painter Mega Paint Set, Part 2
Over the past week, I have been working with the contents of the Army Painter Mega Paint Set, along with one of their cans of Pure Red spray paint.
The two photos above are after the spray paint has dried. The amount of red overwhelmed my poor digital camera and I was not sure the shots were going to even turn out. I took about six different photos and these two turned out the best.
As you can see, the spray completely covers the plastic and metal figures, with no material color bleeding through. However, in the course of painting the metal figures, I accidentally dropped the stick I was holding and a significant amount of red primer came off...in my mind it was more than what a standard black or white primer would have done.
I do not have current WIP photos of my troops, but I will take pics of those later. I AM noticing the red primer does bleed through quite a bit, even through two coats of watered down AP Tanned Flesh. It may be best to not use a 1:1 water to paint ratio with the colored sprays as primer.
Also, it has taken me 3 coats of straight AP Demonic Yellow to "mostly" cover the red primed socks of my troops pictured here. Yellows and reds have always been a problem as far as undercoat bleed through, no matter the brand, but I was trying to go with the "Army Painter Method" of using base colors only, on top of the primer. I will switch back to using a light brown paint, applied first, on top of the primer to then be covered by the yellow.
For the reds, white as undercoat seems to work best, without any "pinkish" hues that I have had with Games Workshop paints, in the past.
The AP paint bottles are virtually the same as those of Vallejo, the only noticeable difference being that the Vallejo bottles have slightly rounded edges. However, there IS a significant problem with the AP paints that I have no had with Vallejo. The photo below indicates this.
These are two bottles that have yet to be used or even shaken. Notice the leakage of paint from the Tanned Flesh bottle. This is a result of packaging, as the boxed set was still factory sealed when I received it.
The red bottle is, well hugely disappointing. Look at the crusted on red paint...and I've not even used the paint yet. You are seeing the condition of the bottle immediately after I opened the darn thing. Look at all the red paint smeared inside the cap. It was thickly in there too, not a thin smear, but a thick clump of wasted paint.
I cannot help but think that either the cap does not seal the bottle when twisted tight or that the folks who packaged the paint did not do a good enough job. Unfortunately, I was not thinking about this when I shook a couple of the paints (Black and Grey) and did not take the caps off until after I had shaken them. When I did take the caps off, I had a lot of paint ooze out of the caps...having either already escaped from the bottle or having done so during the shaking process.
Now, I am going to have to make sure all the caps are twisted tightly before I shake the ones I have not yet used or opened.
How well does the paint go on?
Well, when using Vallejo, I use a 1:1 mixing ratio of water to paint, but that seems to be too much water for AP. When I go 1:1.5 or 1:2 then the AP paints seem to work better. The only thing is, the AP paints are drying out faster than the Vallejo paints when I test them using the same mixing ratio. This seems strange as I think that these two modeling paints are fairly nearly the same chemical mix and just the color hues are what makes them different. Now, admittedly I have had the Vallejo's a lot longer and this may make for some difference, but I would think this would mean the Vallejo would come off the worse for it.
Will I use AP in the future?
Yes, I think I may do so. My local FLGS is rumored to be contemplating carrying the AP line of paints, which means I can get what I want within a matter of minutes instead of waiting a week or more. None of the local shops stock Vallejo, aside from a couple of the standard paint sets, so it's all special order for that line.
Still, AP needs a much more broad selection of paints in order to fulfill my paint needs as very few of their colors will work well for WWI and WWII vehicles or uniforms. Here, Vallejo wins out.
The paint brushes, of which I have used three of the six provided in the set, are okay. Not great, but not too bad either. The do reshape into a point nicely, after use, but Regiment brush thickens up a bit with a moderate amount of paint. Thus, it is too small to do large areas, but since it does not hold a point when using it, it is of limited use to me. I was painting the 28mm figures pictured above, with it, but I would hesitate to use this particular brush on 15-18mm. The Character brush is a dream to work with, though; it kept its point while painting.
Oh, one last thing, Vallejo bottles are 17ml and the AP bottles are 18ml. Of course, with the leakage of the AP paints, this difference may be moot.
The two photos above are after the spray paint has dried. The amount of red overwhelmed my poor digital camera and I was not sure the shots were going to even turn out. I took about six different photos and these two turned out the best.As you can see, the spray completely covers the plastic and metal figures, with no material color bleeding through. However, in the course of painting the metal figures, I accidentally dropped the stick I was holding and a significant amount of red primer came off...in my mind it was more than what a standard black or white primer would have done.
I do not have current WIP photos of my troops, but I will take pics of those later. I AM noticing the red primer does bleed through quite a bit, even through two coats of watered down AP Tanned Flesh. It may be best to not use a 1:1 water to paint ratio with the colored sprays as primer.
Also, it has taken me 3 coats of straight AP Demonic Yellow to "mostly" cover the red primed socks of my troops pictured here. Yellows and reds have always been a problem as far as undercoat bleed through, no matter the brand, but I was trying to go with the "Army Painter Method" of using base colors only, on top of the primer. I will switch back to using a light brown paint, applied first, on top of the primer to then be covered by the yellow.
For the reds, white as undercoat seems to work best, without any "pinkish" hues that I have had with Games Workshop paints, in the past.
The AP paint bottles are virtually the same as those of Vallejo, the only noticeable difference being that the Vallejo bottles have slightly rounded edges. However, there IS a significant problem with the AP paints that I have no had with Vallejo. The photo below indicates this.
These are two bottles that have yet to be used or even shaken. Notice the leakage of paint from the Tanned Flesh bottle. This is a result of packaging, as the boxed set was still factory sealed when I received it.The red bottle is, well hugely disappointing. Look at the crusted on red paint...and I've not even used the paint yet. You are seeing the condition of the bottle immediately after I opened the darn thing. Look at all the red paint smeared inside the cap. It was thickly in there too, not a thin smear, but a thick clump of wasted paint.
I cannot help but think that either the cap does not seal the bottle when twisted tight or that the folks who packaged the paint did not do a good enough job. Unfortunately, I was not thinking about this when I shook a couple of the paints (Black and Grey) and did not take the caps off until after I had shaken them. When I did take the caps off, I had a lot of paint ooze out of the caps...having either already escaped from the bottle or having done so during the shaking process.
Now, I am going to have to make sure all the caps are twisted tightly before I shake the ones I have not yet used or opened.
How well does the paint go on?
Well, when using Vallejo, I use a 1:1 mixing ratio of water to paint, but that seems to be too much water for AP. When I go 1:1.5 or 1:2 then the AP paints seem to work better. The only thing is, the AP paints are drying out faster than the Vallejo paints when I test them using the same mixing ratio. This seems strange as I think that these two modeling paints are fairly nearly the same chemical mix and just the color hues are what makes them different. Now, admittedly I have had the Vallejo's a lot longer and this may make for some difference, but I would think this would mean the Vallejo would come off the worse for it.
Will I use AP in the future?
Yes, I think I may do so. My local FLGS is rumored to be contemplating carrying the AP line of paints, which means I can get what I want within a matter of minutes instead of waiting a week or more. None of the local shops stock Vallejo, aside from a couple of the standard paint sets, so it's all special order for that line.
Still, AP needs a much more broad selection of paints in order to fulfill my paint needs as very few of their colors will work well for WWI and WWII vehicles or uniforms. Here, Vallejo wins out.
The paint brushes, of which I have used three of the six provided in the set, are okay. Not great, but not too bad either. The do reshape into a point nicely, after use, but Regiment brush thickens up a bit with a moderate amount of paint. Thus, it is too small to do large areas, but since it does not hold a point when using it, it is of limited use to me. I was painting the 28mm figures pictured above, with it, but I would hesitate to use this particular brush on 15-18mm. The Character brush is a dream to work with, though; it kept its point while painting.
Oh, one last thing, Vallejo bottles are 17ml and the AP bottles are 18ml. Of course, with the leakage of the AP paints, this difference may be moot.
Saturday, April 14, 2012
The Mouse that Roared! Little Generals' Club Game: April 2012
Those who know me as a wargamer also know of my abysmal luck with the dice. If they were present at a Vietnam game, using Force on Force rules, in October of 2010, they also know that every once in a while (18-24 months) I get ONE game where the dice gawds smile upon me and grant me a boon.
Well, today was one of those days. :)
Note: some of these pictures are less than stellar. Sorry... it was a day where I had the shakes.
The above gent is Dan. He is the "father" of wargaming in the Central Valley of California. It was he, in 1974-5, that created the Little Generals Club, which I joined about a decade later. At this meeting, which Dan was forced to attend by Bryan, he was presented with a plaque in appreciation of his contribution to our hobby. You can see the great amount of pleasure on his face at receiving the award...
Today's game was an AWI fictional combat, using a homebrew set of rules based on Games Workshop's Mordheim and elements of another rule system (I forget which). Bryan and his son, Ryan, put the game on, using figures that Bryan had purchased from Dan about 15 years ago.
The game took place at our usual venue, Hobbytown USA, Fresno. This time, though, we used the upstairs room, which is a bit smaller, but more private. The table pictured was 15' long by 5' wide. To the right is the deployment area for His Majesty's troops and to the left is the zone for the rebel scum.
The objective was for the attacking American troops to capture the two redoubts on the table.
The left most redoubt, under the command of Colonel Richard, comprised of Hessians and other mercenary troops, along with two guns. On this flank, somewhere in the woods, were three warbands of natives (commanded by Scout Lieutenant Jeff), who ventured out for some looting and scalping several turns into the game.
The redoubt on the right was defended by my brigade of 2 battalions of British regulars, 1 battalion of British light infantry, and 1 battalion of loyalist militia. Dan was on my right, with four battalions of regulars, one being an elite unit of highlanders. I also commanded two guns.
The American force contained 31 battalions, and His Majesty's heroic defenders amounted to 14 battalions of infantry and three warbands of loyal natives. Above, one sees a few of the approaching rebels from somewhere in front of the Hessian redoubt. As about half the rebel army was made up of militia, they advanced through the woods, limiting the ability of our cannon to rake them as they advanced.
Initial deployment for both sides is completed on the right.
The above two photos show what my own brigade faced after about two turns of movement. Essentially, on the right, the rebels had nine battalions to (what they observed to be) five battalions.
On the left, the Americans had a nearly 2.5:1 advantage.
Dan, wanting to get stuck in sooner rather than later, advances from the redoubt to form a line at a right angle to the front of my position.
A terrible shot, so don't bother clicking on it, but you can see the relative distance between the advancing rebels and my position. Dan's regulars are in the top right, after having formed a new line.
General Neil's American scouts were able to spot my light troops, which had been hidden in the woods. A rather unfortunate turn of events. Yet, I had drawn first blood with a nice bouncing shot from one of my cannon; 3 of the rebels are turned into so much tomato sauce.
I have no envy for Colonel Richard, only pity. These Americans were going to become a big problem for him...and soon.
Dan springs his trap, and unleashes the rest of his brigade that had been hiding in the woods. The Americans, under General Art, fell back before the greater numbers of British infantry.
However, having spotted my light troops in the woods, General Art is able to charge them. My lads have to pass a morale test, which they do, but the casualties favored my men slightly.
General Richard feeling the increasing pressure as more and more Americans march on his redoubt. Some loyal natives have appeared on the American's flank, drawing the attention of two elite units.
My light troops end up getting wiped out to a man after being charged by a second battalion of rebels. However, I counter attack, with two battalions (one being militia), immediately.
The hammer of Dan, as it is swung against the Americans. The two battalions in the left foreground are mine, the rest (in line at an angle to the viewer) are Dan's. My two battalions pictured here charge the rebels. One fighting a depleted unit of rebels out of frame to the left and the right one against the brown clad militia in the left middle-ground.
It is here where my dice are suddenly blessed beyond all hope. I have two large close combats/melees this turn. One is of 37 models against about 22-25 models. I score 32 wounds!! Since the rule is, a unit does not recover casualties during combat, your unit is eliminated if you lose combat and all your troops are down. Scratch one full battalion of rebels and the remnants of a second (I have already destroyed one battalion in the previous turn). My second combat is of 20 troops facing 16...I score 17 wounds!!!. A third American battalion is eliminated in close combat, the fourth in two turns.
I start to refuse my left flank, but my lads in the center of my new line, those on the right side of the frame just beyond the foreground (with ones that are on their backs) was counter-attacked immediately after they won their fight against the militia. I had nine figures standing at the end of it, but my boys did not give their ground and the combat continued.
Dan comes in with his wall of troops all at once, striking three American battalions, including one that my own boys are fighting. He shatters the skirmishers in the center of the photo, helps me eliminate those troops which had just counter-attacked me to the left side of the frame (at this time the figures were being removed, thus the moving hand of General Neil) and Dan is rolling against another American battalion at the top of the picture...
which ends of giving as much as it got, but failing its morale test falls back as a result.
At this point of the game and on this side of the table, the Americans have lost six battalions eliminated, a seventh battalion is falling back at under half strength, and three other battalions have taken a handful of casualties between them. We have lost, on this flank, one full battalion of light troops, half of the elite highlanders, and about a dozen other figures. For a casualty ratio Americans to British of over 2:1.
Now, the left flank of our line was doing...less well. While giving as heroic a fight as they could, the Hessians and other mercenaries are in the process of being overrun by American militia...who passed some morale rolls that were nearly impossible.
With the game declared a draw, this is the situation on the British right just before we cleaned up. My two units are still in the woods, with a few of my militia barely in the frame at lower right foreground and my third battalion to the left of center frame. Across from my lads is the head of a long column of rebel militia reinforcements...which I had hit several times with artillery. My troops pictured here had just weathered a ferocious amount of fire coming from American regulars, but I suffered only one dead. It appears my terrible luck with the dice rubbed off on both Neil and Art, today. Luckily for Art, he had to leave right before the turn where I wiped out his units with those great two rolls. He would have had a coronary had he stayed to see it!
Overall it was a great game...and once I had that fantastic turn, I could have lost everything all at once and I still would have had a wonderful time. It was about damn time I had things go my way with the dice!!!
Tomorrow I hope to have more thoughts on the Army Painter mega paint set...as a hint...think "disappointment, but workable."
Well, today was one of those days. :)
Note: some of these pictures are less than stellar. Sorry... it was a day where I had the shakes.
The above gent is Dan. He is the "father" of wargaming in the Central Valley of California. It was he, in 1974-5, that created the Little Generals Club, which I joined about a decade later. At this meeting, which Dan was forced to attend by Bryan, he was presented with a plaque in appreciation of his contribution to our hobby. You can see the great amount of pleasure on his face at receiving the award...Today's game was an AWI fictional combat, using a homebrew set of rules based on Games Workshop's Mordheim and elements of another rule system (I forget which). Bryan and his son, Ryan, put the game on, using figures that Bryan had purchased from Dan about 15 years ago.
The game took place at our usual venue, Hobbytown USA, Fresno. This time, though, we used the upstairs room, which is a bit smaller, but more private. The table pictured was 15' long by 5' wide. To the right is the deployment area for His Majesty's troops and to the left is the zone for the rebel scum.
The objective was for the attacking American troops to capture the two redoubts on the table.
The left most redoubt, under the command of Colonel Richard, comprised of Hessians and other mercenary troops, along with two guns. On this flank, somewhere in the woods, were three warbands of natives (commanded by Scout Lieutenant Jeff), who ventured out for some looting and scalping several turns into the game.
The redoubt on the right was defended by my brigade of 2 battalions of British regulars, 1 battalion of British light infantry, and 1 battalion of loyalist militia. Dan was on my right, with four battalions of regulars, one being an elite unit of highlanders. I also commanded two guns.
The American force contained 31 battalions, and His Majesty's heroic defenders amounted to 14 battalions of infantry and three warbands of loyal natives. Above, one sees a few of the approaching rebels from somewhere in front of the Hessian redoubt. As about half the rebel army was made up of militia, they advanced through the woods, limiting the ability of our cannon to rake them as they advanced.
Initial deployment for both sides is completed on the right.
The above two photos show what my own brigade faced after about two turns of movement. Essentially, on the right, the rebels had nine battalions to (what they observed to be) five battalions.On the left, the Americans had a nearly 2.5:1 advantage.
Dan, wanting to get stuck in sooner rather than later, advances from the redoubt to form a line at a right angle to the front of my position.
A terrible shot, so don't bother clicking on it, but you can see the relative distance between the advancing rebels and my position. Dan's regulars are in the top right, after having formed a new line.
General Neil's American scouts were able to spot my light troops, which had been hidden in the woods. A rather unfortunate turn of events. Yet, I had drawn first blood with a nice bouncing shot from one of my cannon; 3 of the rebels are turned into so much tomato sauce.
I have no envy for Colonel Richard, only pity. These Americans were going to become a big problem for him...and soon.
Dan springs his trap, and unleashes the rest of his brigade that had been hiding in the woods. The Americans, under General Art, fell back before the greater numbers of British infantry.
However, having spotted my light troops in the woods, General Art is able to charge them. My lads have to pass a morale test, which they do, but the casualties favored my men slightly.
General Richard feeling the increasing pressure as more and more Americans march on his redoubt. Some loyal natives have appeared on the American's flank, drawing the attention of two elite units.
My light troops end up getting wiped out to a man after being charged by a second battalion of rebels. However, I counter attack, with two battalions (one being militia), immediately.
The hammer of Dan, as it is swung against the Americans. The two battalions in the left foreground are mine, the rest (in line at an angle to the viewer) are Dan's. My two battalions pictured here charge the rebels. One fighting a depleted unit of rebels out of frame to the left and the right one against the brown clad militia in the left middle-ground.It is here where my dice are suddenly blessed beyond all hope. I have two large close combats/melees this turn. One is of 37 models against about 22-25 models. I score 32 wounds!! Since the rule is, a unit does not recover casualties during combat, your unit is eliminated if you lose combat and all your troops are down. Scratch one full battalion of rebels and the remnants of a second (I have already destroyed one battalion in the previous turn). My second combat is of 20 troops facing 16...I score 17 wounds!!!. A third American battalion is eliminated in close combat, the fourth in two turns.
I start to refuse my left flank, but my lads in the center of my new line, those on the right side of the frame just beyond the foreground (with ones that are on their backs) was counter-attacked immediately after they won their fight against the militia. I had nine figures standing at the end of it, but my boys did not give their ground and the combat continued.
Dan comes in with his wall of troops all at once, striking three American battalions, including one that my own boys are fighting. He shatters the skirmishers in the center of the photo, helps me eliminate those troops which had just counter-attacked me to the left side of the frame (at this time the figures were being removed, thus the moving hand of General Neil) and Dan is rolling against another American battalion at the top of the picture...
which ends of giving as much as it got, but failing its morale test falls back as a result.At this point of the game and on this side of the table, the Americans have lost six battalions eliminated, a seventh battalion is falling back at under half strength, and three other battalions have taken a handful of casualties between them. We have lost, on this flank, one full battalion of light troops, half of the elite highlanders, and about a dozen other figures. For a casualty ratio Americans to British of over 2:1.
Now, the left flank of our line was doing...less well. While giving as heroic a fight as they could, the Hessians and other mercenaries are in the process of being overrun by American militia...who passed some morale rolls that were nearly impossible.
With the game declared a draw, this is the situation on the British right just before we cleaned up. My two units are still in the woods, with a few of my militia barely in the frame at lower right foreground and my third battalion to the left of center frame. Across from my lads is the head of a long column of rebel militia reinforcements...which I had hit several times with artillery. My troops pictured here had just weathered a ferocious amount of fire coming from American regulars, but I suffered only one dead. It appears my terrible luck with the dice rubbed off on both Neil and Art, today. Luckily for Art, he had to leave right before the turn where I wiped out his units with those great two rolls. He would have had a coronary had he stayed to see it!Overall it was a great game...and once I had that fantastic turn, I could have lost everything all at once and I still would have had a wonderful time. It was about damn time I had things go my way with the dice!!!
Tomorrow I hope to have more thoughts on the Army Painter mega paint set...as a hint...think "disappointment, but workable."
Monday, April 2, 2012
Army Painter Mega Paint Set
Well, after several months of waiting, this paint set finally arrived a week ago Tuesday. I have not, as yet, used the paints, nor the sprays which I have purchased over the past few months, I've either been too busy or the low temperature/high humidity have caused me to not want to try to prime...been there, done that, have the ruined figures to prove it.
When I see "Mega Paint Set" I am thinking something more along the lines of the GW set that had one of every color in their line, plus empty bottles, plus brushes, plus terrain flocking and sand, etc.
So, imagine my slight disappointment when I received the above pictured box. Sure, it has more than the typical paint set, coming in at 36 bottles of paints and varnish, plus six paint brushes. The trouble is, I still need some paints...scarlet being one of them.
I do have three of their color primers, black, red, and brown, and a can of strong tone quickshade, so I can shortly begin using the "dip" method and see how it works for me. I have not yet decided whether or not I will try to save the shade material by brushing it on, or use more of it (and adding to wastage) by the dip and flick method. I am back to being impoverished again...but this time, it is for good until I get a paying job. Some readers may quibble with my spending money on this paint set, but I have very few paints with which to paint figures...and since I am hoping to sell some painted models, I had to spend money to try to make money.
Besides, I have sold a few hundred dollars of GW figures from my collection that I never took out of the boxes, so that covered the paint set. If I can sell the rest of my GW stuff, I will be able to buy the new GW mega paint set...and then my paint needs will be sorted!
Ah...back to this critique...
The painting guide that came with the set, but is also available free online, is...nothing I have not really seen before, aside from the detail on using their quickshades. The interesting bit from their line is that the sprays match one of the bottled paints "100%"! Okay, that's...uh...cool. But I just want to make sure the spray paint is 1) good and 2) the right colors for my needs.
For one thing, I am not about to waste expensive spray paint to hold my figures to a piece of cardboard, for priming purposes. Instead, I will use white glue or rubber glue, which is much cheaper and does not add to wasting a product that I can only get from limited outlets. I can buy rubber cement from Target or Wallyworld, but it is at least a week for an Army Painter spray, whether I order it online or from my local FLGS.
The paint brushes from this set may be what sets this apart for me. I have never used this brand before, but I am willing to give them a try out. If they work well, then I will keep them in my toolbox.
Where I was additionally chagrined is when I looked at how the paints were packaged. True, the nice little baggies that hold three bottles each will come in handy for a variety of things, but the haphazard arrangements of the paint inside is what annoys me. I just reached over and grabbed a bag out of the box, as I look at it, I see Goblin Green, Monster Brown, and Strone Tone ink. The very next bag has a metallic, bone, and a blue....
If you're going to sell me a paint set, please put alike with alike. Try to "wow" me with having the metallics together, the inks together, and if you have three shades of a color, put those together. I understand that not everything "fits" together perfectly, but at least go through the motions. The very first thing I did after seeing the contents for the first time was to inventory the paints and make sure I had the right selection. This is where not having 100+ bottles of paint went in my favor.
This is not a "review" of the AP Mega Paint Set, per se, but rather my thoughts on it. Until I actually use the product, I will not be able to review it properly.
I welcome anyone else's comments on this, especially if you HAVE used the AP paints and "dip" method.
Sunday, April 1, 2012
1708 Campaign Rules
The rules, a work in progress, for the upcoming 1708 campaign are kept on a different blog located here: http://1708imagi-nation.blogspot.com/
These campaign rules, largely a work of my own making, but influenced by many different sets of rules that I have acquired over the past 30+ years of wargaming, some rather recently. In some cases, to fill certain campaign needs, I have chosen to utilize commercially published rules, which I own copies of, and since those works are copyrighted, I will not include them in an online format. Instead, I will post links to the rules, were such exist, or provide an explanation as to how or to what extent I will be using them.
If you end up purchasing the rules based upon my mention of them here, please pass that along to the authors. I do want for people to know that their hard work is appreciated.
Also, I am not in any way affiliated with any current rules publishers, although I do happen to be acquainted with or personally know a number of the authors of currently popular rule sets.
These campaign rules, largely a work of my own making, but influenced by many different sets of rules that I have acquired over the past 30+ years of wargaming, some rather recently. In some cases, to fill certain campaign needs, I have chosen to utilize commercially published rules, which I own copies of, and since those works are copyrighted, I will not include them in an online format. Instead, I will post links to the rules, were such exist, or provide an explanation as to how or to what extent I will be using them.
If you end up purchasing the rules based upon my mention of them here, please pass that along to the authors. I do want for people to know that their hard work is appreciated.
Also, I am not in any way affiliated with any current rules publishers, although I do happen to be acquainted with or personally know a number of the authors of currently popular rule sets.
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